Copenhagen's Foodies Share the Best Spots for Breakfast and Brunch

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Oatmeal is highly popular in Denmark, so it’s no wonder that the capital is home to the world’s first porridge bar. But bread and pastries are widely eaten in the morning too, which is reflected by the sheer number of great bakeries in Copenhagen right now.

“Two or three years ago you had the burger fight, and now it’s definitely the Danish pastry fight and the bread fight, now it’s, ‘How’s the house croissant?’” says Dak Wichangoen, referring to the strong competition between bakeries in Copenhagen. Wichangeon is head chef at Kiin Kiin, known for contemporary Thai fusion fine-dining and for being the first Asian restaurant in the city to get a Michelin star.

The vibe here is very much French country cooking – Les Trois Cochons is housed in a cyan-tiled former butcher’s, with brown-leather seating and big windows looking out onto Værnedamsve shopping street, where Vesterbro meets Frederiksberg. Breakfast-wise, Wichangoen recommends the waffles, which come with an array of changing toppings, often based around fruit compotes and crème fraiche. Other than that, there’s a choice between healthy options such as chia porridge and a beetroot juice or ginger shot, or more substantial sustenance such as a shakshuka.

Another of Wichangoen’s favourite places for breakfast is Gaarden and Gaden, a wine bar and kitchen in Nørrebro that serves brunch from 10am to 3.30pm at weekends. Dishes are classic: eggs benedict and bloody marys, plus oysters and morning plates of soft-boiled eggs, cheese, meat, rye bread, butter and jam. “I go there for the croque-madame. Don’t do monsieur, because you need to have the egg on top! I never eat a croque-monsieur when there’s a croque-madame.” The decor is modern Copenhagen – industrial details with smooth light-wood stools, hanging plants and low-hanging lampshades above the bar.

The sourdough and rye bread at Lille Bakery are worth the schlep to Refshaleøen (though do stay long enough to explore the newly buzzing ex-shipbuilding area, home to Noma 2.0, open-air bars by the water and large-scale art gallery Copenhagen Contemporary). The bakery itself is in an industrial space where you’ll find pastries, doughnuts, brioche, granola and eggs with a local and organic ethos. “Lille serves excellent oats, but all the food – including pies, salads and baked goods – are just delightful. The people behind it are bursting with creative energy,” says Gehl.

On former red-light district Vesterbro’s infamous Istedgade, home to porn shops, strip clubs and a multitude of hip bars and restaurants, is Sanchez. Mexican-American ex-Noma chef Rosio Sanchez creates authentically Mexican food using both responsibly sourced Mexican produce and Danish ingredients. And Saturdays and Sundays mean huevos and mezcal cocktails. “The food is spicy and, first and foremost, it’s really Mexican. The flavours are full on,” says Gehl. “One of my favourite dishes is the oyster with habanero salsa. And quesadilla and coffee is probably the best breakfast – in close combat with oats and coffee.”

Grød is proof that Danes really do love their oats. The original very tiny but mighty basement location on Jægersborggade in Nørrebro was the world’s first porridge bar when it opened in 2011. “It has been quite the success, with seven porridge bars in Denmark now,” says Ingemann. “I really like the first one – it’s a small and cosy space.” Though the menu also extends to risottos, daals and congees, Grød mainly serves colourful, oat-based breakfast bowls from 7.30am to 5pm, ranging from green options with spinach, mint, coconut and banana to açai berries. Ingemann recommends the all-in porridge with all the toppings.

“If you are in the mood for something spicy and full of flavour, you should swing by this charming place, Mahalle, for some delicious Lebanese food,” says Ingemann. “There are plenty of vegetarian options on the menu. I recommend trying the breakfast meze with hummus, grilled halloumi, yoghurt, muhammara, bread and tea.” Mahalle serves authentic food with trendy touches: think pretty blue-and-white crockery, added avocado and decorative pomegranate toppings on dishes and frozen mint lemonade served in jars. There are three locations – one in central Copenhagen and two in Nørrebro.

This article is an updated version of a story originally created by Aliki Seferou.